The oars dip slowly into the barely moving waters of the Sudd, one of the largest wetlands on earth. It’s an idyllic scene. Nearly dusk, birds of all kinds alight on the swamp, looking for dinner and settling into their nests for the night. The tall grasses sway lightly in the breeze. The towering grey clouds overhead are remnants of an earlier downpour, and the air is thick with humidity. The light is just right – soft and tinged in sepia.